Svalbard: Where polar bears are at home

Polar bears in the wild, immense glaciers, endless pack ice and the captivating silence of the Arctic: an expedition around Svalbard takes you into a world that could hardly feel further removed from everyday life. In July 2026, our colleague Nadine accompanied a group of travellers from Luxembourg aboard HANSEATIC nature. What she experienced there is something she will not forget anytime soon.

Heading north: all the way around Svalbard

On 18 July 2026, almost 20 travellers from Luxembourg set off for the Far North. Via Frankfurt, they travelled to Tromsø, where Hapag-Lloyd Cruises’ HANSEATIC nature was already waiting. That same evening, the ship cast off for an extraordinary adventure: a complete circumnavigation of Svalbard.

There was one dream almost everyone on board shared: to see a polar bear in the wild. Not in a zoo or on a television screen, but where it truly belongs – among ice, glaciers and the seemingly endless expanses of the Arctic.

After a stormy first night, the sea gradually calmed. The clouds cleared to reveal the dramatic landscape, and before long the first landings and Zodiac cruises could take place.

The expedition had truly begun.

Finally: the first polar bear!

On 22 July, the moment everyone had been waiting for arrived. At Sundneset, the group spotted its first polar bear.

It was still some distance away and barely visible to the naked eye. Resting lazily behind a rock, it seemed entirely unconcerned by the excitement it had caused. From a safe distance and accompanied by the polar bear guards responsible for safety during landings, the group was able to watch it.

Their first polar bear in the wild – the moment everyone had hoped for.

And it was only the beginning. As the expedition continued, there were several more encounters, each completely different: a solitary bear wandering through the Arctic landscape, a mother and cub near a walrus colony – while, as if the moment were not extraordinary enough, beluga whales passed by – and another mother with her cub beneath towering bird cliffs.

One encounter from the Zodiacs was particularly memorable. A female polar bear and her approximately two-year-old cub could be observed from surprisingly close range. Two polar bears in the midst of this vast landscape, entirely at home in their natural habitat – a sight that left a lasting impression on everyone.

And Svalbard had much more wildlife in store.

Walruses rested along the shores, reindeer wandered across the barren landscape, seals appeared in the water and tiny Arctic fox cubs provided perhaps one of the most endearing moments of the journey.

The bird cliffs were equally spectacular. Hundreds of thousands of Brünnich’s guillemots nested there, and the travellers even witnessed adult birds encouraging their young to leave the safety of the cliffs and take their first great step towards independence.

The Arctic revealed itself for what it is: raw and untamed – yet incredibly alive.

Just 950 kilometres from the North Pole

Then came 25 July – and a spontaneous decision by Captain Ulf Sodemann.

HANSEATIC nature set a course even further north. The destination: the pack ice.

Eventually, the ship crossed the 81st parallel. From here, the geographical North Pole was only around 950 kilometres away.

Slowly, HANSEATIC nature made its way through countless sheets of pack ice. All around was nothing but ice, sea and the seemingly endless expanse of the Arctic. The cracking and creaking of the ice, the extraordinary silence and the knowledge that they were in one of the northernmost accessible regions on Earth made this one of the defining moments of the entire journey.

The midnight sun made the experience almost surreal. As the ship travelled through the pack ice during the night, it remained broad daylight. At this time of year, the sun simply does not set this far north.

In the middle of the night. Surrounded by ice. And only around 950 kilometres from the North Pole.

A moment that still sends shivers down the spine.

Dinosaurs, hot springs and icy water

Anyone who imagines Svalbard as nothing but snow and ice may be in for a surprise. The archipelago is full of unexpected discoveries.

One of them takes us back millions of years. At that time, Svalbard was nowhere near its present position in the Far North. The climate was considerably warmer, lush vegetation covered the landscape – and dinosaurs roamed the region.

Their footprints can still be found preserved in the rock today. Standing in the Arctic, on the very ground where dinosaurs once walked, is certainly one of the more unexpected experiences a journey to Svalbard can offer.

No less surprising are the hot springs found amid this rugged landscape. Bathing in them is, of course, off limits. When exploring such a fragile ecosystem, one of the most important principles is to leave as little trace as possible and protect the natural environment.

Those who were still determined to go swimming in Svalbard did eventually get their chance – albeit at the opposite end of the temperature scale. During a polar plunge into the icy Arctic Ocean, a few brave travellers actually took the leap.

An experience that probably made everyone appreciate the warmth afterwards even more.

When a glacier shows its power

Ice, of course, remains one of the great protagonists of any journey through Svalbard.

At Negribreen and Monacobreen, the group experienced two of the region’s immense glaciers at close range. It is only when standing before these giants of ice that the sheer scale of the Arctic landscape truly becomes apparent.

At Monacobreen, another extraordinary moment awaited.

Part of the glacier broke away with tremendous force and crashed into the sea. Moments later, the resulting wave reached the group on the water.

To see and hear a glacier calving is spectacular enough. To feel its power on the water only moments later is one of those experiences that cannot be planned – and precisely because of that, remains in the memory for a very long time.

Expedition by day, five-star comfort by night

As extraordinary as the experiences outside were, the contrast aboard HANSEATIC nature was equally special.

An expedition cruise certainly does not mean having to sacrifice comfort. After Zodiac cruises, landings and hours spent exploring the Arctic wilderness, guests returned to five-star service, varied cuisine and plenty of opportunities to sit back and reflect on everything they had experienced that day.

The daily lectures by the experts and specialists on board were also an important part of the expedition concept. They provided fascinating background on the landscapes, wildlife and history of the region, helped put the day’s experiences into context and prepared guests for what might lie ahead.

In this way, many of the things that initially seemed simply overwhelming outside gained an entirely new depth and meaning.

The crew also had a few surprises in store along the way – from an impromptu “Polar-Pølser” by the pool to an Officers’ Cocktail accompanied by the HANSEATIC nature Crew Band.

By the time the Captain’s Farewell Cocktail arrived, everyone realised that an extraordinary journey was slowly drawing to a close. The crew’s shanty choir added just the right touch of nostalgia – and even the traditional souvenir chart of the Svalbard expedition eventually made its way back to Luxembourg after being auctioned on board.

What makes an expedition cruise so special

A journey like this cannot be planned down to the last detail – and that is precisely part of its appeal.

Weather, ice conditions and wildlife all help determine the programme from one day to the next. A planned landing may have to change, an unexpected opportunity for a Zodiac cruise may arise, or the captain may spontaneously decide, as on this journey, to head further north into the pack ice.

Wildlife encounters cannot be ordered either. Nobody can guarantee when or where a polar bear will appear, whether beluga whales will pass by or an Arctic fox will make an appearance.

An expedition cruise therefore calls for a little flexibility and plenty of curiosity. In return, it creates opportunities and experiences that would rarely be possible on a conventional journey.

Not knowing exactly what tomorrow will bring is not a disadvantage.

It is part of the adventure.

A journey that stays with you

For Nadine, who accompanied the group, this Svalbard expedition undoubtedly ranks among the most beautiful journeys she has experienced so far.

And surprisingly, alongside the polar bears, walruses and mighty glaciers, it is sometimes the smaller, almost inconspicuous details that remain most deeply etched in the memory: the cracking and creaking of the ice, the deep rumble through the ship as HANSEATIC nature meets the pack ice, the endless space – and above all, the extraordinary silence.

A kind of silence that has become rare in everyday life.

Far away from roads, appointments and the rush of daily life, the world suddenly seems to slow down. You look out across ice, sea and sky and realise how little it takes simply to sit there, marvel and enjoy the moment.

Svalbard slows you down.

In the end, the group brought far more back to Luxembourg than photographs and souvenirs: images of polar bears and walruses, immense glaciers and endless pack ice. Special encounters and moments experienced together. And the feeling of having spent a few days immersed in a world that could hardly be further removed from everyday life.

A journey to the edge of the world – and a journey that stays with you.